Algarve Letters

Algarve Beaches

The snag with Algarvean beaches is the lack of shade, and since it gets seriously hot in the summer that is a big problem. However, that makes October the ideal month to laze on the beach. It's as hot as a good English summer, but not unpleasantly hot, and some of the beaches are really nice.

We particularly like the beaches over on the Western Algarve. The eucalyptus trees smell lovely as you glide down from the Monchique hills, then there is the smell of the pines, and the scent of the herbs in the grass. It all mixes together into an intoxicating brew.

We particularly like the beach at Carpenteira. There are sandy mounds, and agaves in all directions, as if we were in the Mexican desert. Then we drive into a small parking lot, and there before us is a small lagoon, with white sands piled high on the seaward side. The waters of the lagoon should be nice and warm for swimming. The depth is only about half a metre to a metre, but the wind was blowing hard from the sea and it was rather chilly despite the hot sun.

This beach goes on for miles of wide almost uninhabited sand. Where the rocks come down to the water the waves crash with some anger onto them as if trying to smash them to pieces.

Just south of Aljezur there is another beach called Arifana. To get to it you have to climb the hill to the seaward side of the village and ride along the ridge, then turn towards the sea, past the school and down into the village. Go through the village, and bear left down a steep hill which quickly changes to cobbles. This winds right down to the beach.

There is a wide sandy beach with big rollers coming in from the Atlantic. The houses are clutching to the hillside. It is not a place for those with dodgy legs. With a deep blue sky, a blue sea, and no wind here it was an ideal place to laze away an October day.

The only snag with these places is the silly prices on the houses. People are asking a quarter of a million euros for small two bed houses. They would be expensive at half that price. If you look at the prices of places in Sicily, which has a similar climate but with a warmer sea, you will find properties at half these prices, and sometimes even less. You'd be mad to pay the prices asked in Portugal. They have a long way to fall. Ultimately reality will have its way.

On the way back we stopped at Andre's for a late lunch. Andre, despite the confusing name, comes from Hamburg, and dishes up good German food. Julie usually has a wiener schnitzel, but I chose a stuffed pepper, and it was huge and delicious.

We must do this more often. With that thought in mind we went back a couple of days later. There is a car boot sale once a month at Vale de Telha, and my neighbour sets up her stall. The event is held in the school yard, and after the bargaining is over we pack up and drive down to the beach at Arifana.

There is a scattering of houses on the cliffs from where a cobbled road leads down the side of the cliff in a zigzag to the beach below. A restaurant and several houses cling to the hillside. I guess it is a fabulous place to stay for a month or so in the summer.

The beach is large, sandy, and the sea is blue, warm, and there are a few nice big breakers to roll back in on your surf board. It's a great place to spend a leisurely day.

Further north is another beach called Monte Clerigo. That is less spectacular, but easy to drive to, and the beach is wider and longer. You could have a beach tour, and start the day at Carpenteira, then move up to Arifana, and spend the evening at Monte Clerigo, with maybe a stop at Andre's for a fabulous evening meal.

On our second day out on the beach we stopped for a curried chicken, and an apple crêpe with cream. Being a German bar I can drink German beer instead of the acidic Portuguese lager. He stocks a slightly creamy beer from Munich. Very nice.

Yes, we really must do this more often.